Furrion AC FACR13LPSA-PS shot cycling problems; possible fix!

If you are like me and have Model Z that the Furrion AC is short cycling and Brinkley is saying nothing is wrong here is an option to try.

This is the Furrion Air Distribution box FACT12SA-PS etrailer.com or Amazon. It replaces the entire plate that holds the AC onto the roof. Then it has an internal duct that pushes the air out either the front or back of the unit and both vents are adjustable. BONUS POINTS it is significantly muffled the noise and it has a pair of washable air filters.

I have only had a few hours of testing but it seems like it is definitely making a huge improvement in preventing the short cycling issues the Furrions AC’s have. This does not fix the temperature reading, it is still on the roof and you still need to run the fan on low all the time to really get it to properly move the room temperature air over the sensor in the ceiling.

Direct fit and no modifications needed. I picked up a calibrated logging temperature and humidity sensor and I am working on logging the difference before and after and will report back if this helps anyone.

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Any idea how much quieter? We just got home to Arizona with our new 3400 after picking it up in Texas 3 weeks ago and immediately hitting the road. This thing is on our short list of gripes with the trailer (totally NOT a Furrion fan, but that is for another post). It is extremely noisy, and like you say, the fan must be on low all the time. To be honest, we run the fan on low at night as ambient noise, to block out traffic, trains, etc. We have been doing this for several years. But this thing is way too much ambient noise. Changing fan speeds from low to high is hardly any difference in noise level. The compressor is also exceptionally loud, and frequently engages with a loud thunk. As good as they got the downstairs unit, its hard to believe this crappy thing came from the same company. I have noticed, however, that the hotter the outside temperature, the less frequent the compressor cycling, even though the interior temp has been recovered.

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I can take a video but that won’t give you the full effect between the two. It is a major difference in sound though, and we like the fan on as well for the ambient noise.

I am happy that someone else is having a loud thud when the compressor engages. Sometimes it is quiet and normal and other times it is so jolting it shakes the entire rig and roof. The banging is so loud from the compressor it has woken us up in the middle of the night scared to death that something just happened. Rack that up to another issue with these POS low profile AC’s.

Honestly the AC units are probably my biggest disappointment in Brinkley. They are horrible and Customer Care frankly seems to take the stance that everything is normal when owner after owner proves in the real world otherwise…

…i think its less low profile unit and more Furrion that is the problem. Coleman mach 8 and duo therm units are much quieter and still low pro. If you notice when you are outside the unit, you can’t hardly hear the A/C at all. But inside is like a noise factory.

A couple of times, I have thought that something collided with the trailer from the intermittent thunking compressor.


And I’ve already ordered the same ceiling unit as you; Etrailer $89. gets here friday. Thanks for the post

I echo the experiences mentioned. The low profiles AC units make this huge thud that rumbles the entire room from time to time. It is not always and only seems to happen once in a while.

I paid attention to the frequency as I was thinking it was an issue with compressor restarting too quickly after it last run (due to the short cycling possibly). I can’t confirm that is the case yet.

Do we have any data that shows that the upgraded vent actually helps cool the bedroom better?

Well, we just finished installing the new ceiling assembly on the bedroom A/C. All I can say is wow! What a difference in noise. Much quieter. Added bonus: the front of the bedroom now has air circulation due to the placement of the air dumps on the edges instead of pointing straight down. We have the forward facing one fully open, and the rear facing one half open, to balance the air discharge. No effect to the bathroom vent; it is the same as before.

Anyone contemplating this simple fix, a few things I learned:

You do not have to mess with any electrical. Two small screws to detach the control box from the metal ceiling plate is all. And the four long bolts retaining the A/C unit to the roof, which use the new metal ceiling plate to sandwich the ceiling between the plate, and the a/c unit. Be careful with the bolt torque, as too little torque can cause an air (or water) leak at the roof, and too much torque will overly compress the roof seal under the a/c unit. I used 1/4 drive socket and short ratchet. I checked for the “feel” of the bolts before I disassembled. The actual torque spec is 40-50 inch pounds.

Also, I reused the foam divider baffle from the old metal plate as it seemed much more substantial than the cheesy two piece plastic on that came with the new kit–see photos of what I didn’t use. The foam one slid right on to the new plate.

I think this was well worth the $89 expenditure. Now, if they could just fix the short cycling issue…

And why is there a 3 degree swing on the thermostat?

Thank you, Chazz, for the original post.

Happy travels to all


I spoke with LCI rep who responded to me about short cycling and he said they have heard from “other Brinkley owners” and are aware of “reports” of short cycling due to Brinkley’s design. He suggested that I should try an upgraded vent this one or apparently they have one with a LED light.

If this does not help all questions needed to be directed back to Brinkey.

Just a quick how to and some data on performance.

First like @darndave I removed the plastic shield. Three plastic clips hold it on, just pry it up with a flathead.

I reused the foam that came with the stock unit. I felt it both separated the intake and exhaust sides better and kept them sealed.

Brinkley used enough adhesive it was annoying to remove the stock bolts that hold the ceiling plate to the air conditioner on the roof. I used the new ones that came with the kit.

Next two screws to hold on the electrical box

Next I clipped in the new exhaust air duct. You can do this without taking this duct off but I wanted it to be tight with no air leakage.

Finally there is 4 screws hold on the ceiling trim.

The air filters and final trim cover go on. I forgot to take a picture. The air filter are washable and reusable.

Now for the analysis using a Ruvvi tag I tracked the temperature of the bedroom with the door open. No more short cycling and it actually cools and removes the humidity. Here you can see the plotted progression through out a 80+ degree day.