Replacing the analog thermostat in the 3610

Does anyone have a fix to replace the analog thermostat in the 3610. It does not seem to control the heat very well and I am getting really frustrated. I am looking at the the Micro-Air EasyTouch but I have no idea which one of the models to choose since none are for a furnace.

The one you want is the 352 because it is the most generic with standard wire pins on the back.

You will have blue and white wire from what I have seen. Keep in mind you need a 12v circuit to power the thermostat.

I can confirm that the MicroAir EasyTouch 352 can be used in any generic trailer. I used one in my previous Jayco. I will see if I can dig up a picture from when I did the install for the wiring.

The part numbers are very important. If your rig is 24v, you would not use the same unit as a 12v rig would use.

I went thru the wizard on Micro-air website; it advised to get the 353 and I did. I found the install instructions to be exact; the color wire they reference was exact color of wires in my analog thermostat. Total swapout was easily < 10 minutes.

We did have some issues getting the 353 operating. I believe it could be more intuitive. I was surprised at how small the icons are, but the analog unit I removed had same small icons.

Is there a rig that is 24v?

@wudwork I worked with Micro Air and they recommended the 353 as well. I must be overthinking this because I can’t figure out how to get it to wire up properly. The analog thermostat in the Brinkley has two wires, when I measured the voltage with my multimeter the (R) terminal blue wire was 12+ and the (W) white wire was 12-. I understand that the (W) should be the furnace trigger wire.

Here is where it gets confusing. Micro Air manual for the EasyTouch 353 shows the following table. We know the (W) is the Furnace. So I guess the (B) wire becomes the 12+ on the R terminal of the 353?

Now we look at the corresponding wiring diagram from Micro Air and I don’t know if I am confusing myself but the top of the diagram shows the 12v+ battery with power going to the R terminal. The (W) wire going to the W terminal on the 353.

What confuses me is the 12v- going to the B terminal and furnace. Possibly I am taking this diagram to literal, the indication must mean it just needs any path to the chassis ground for example. So if the furnace is grounded at the chassis in the basement, and I tie into a neutral someplace else it does not matter?

I reviewed the wiring schematic for the Suburban that came with the rig and if I am reading this correctly. It is confusing because looks like the left is the overall wiring diagram, the right is the zoomed in detail of the safety switches from the top of the left side.

So since the (B) wire is 12+ I assume that is coming from the “POWER”. The (W) wire is labeled as the Suburban BL wire going to the Limit Switch?

I THINK my problem is I need a new neutral, so it would look like this:

  1. Brinkley (B) wire to the EasyTouch 353’s R terminal
  2. Net new neutral wire to the EasyTouch 353’s B terminal
  3. Brinkley (W) wire to the EasyTouch 353’s W terminal

The good news is the thermostat wire run in my rig is 4 wire. So I have two extra wires in the furnace area which I should be able to tap one of the unused wires and get my 12v- if that is all I need.

Love any input, I am clearly making this too complicated. I was banging my head for hours last night trying to figure this out.

Chaz, my z2900 has (2) a/c units, one in bedroom, other above kitchen island. I did not change the bedroom thermostat as we very rarely use that system. As there is no heater control there, that would explain only (2) wires used of the (4) wire cable. For the kitchen unit, there is a heater to control so you would expect to see the (4) wires all used. I found, when I removed the analog unit, it had (4) screws in back that were labeled. I “just” unscrewed them one at a time and transplanted to the corresponding screw on the 353 unit. Could not have been simpler.

OH, about the 24v. Many folks choose to run a 24vDC or higher battery system. It drastically reduces the size of power wires you run to batteries. As long as you hand off 12v to the fuse block, there is a great advantage of running a battery system > 12v.